Progress beyond Camp 3 has been excellent over recent days.  Dick and I have return to base camp having spent the last 7 days climbing up high.  We managed to push the ropes well beyond Camp 3, established a Camp 4 and then managed to unlock the majority of the Black Gendarme in a long day’s effort.  Our night at Camp 4 was rather uncomfortable with 4 of us crammed into a 2 man tent, resting on a small, but very rocky ledge at 7700m.  We probably totalled about 2 hours sleep between us all, but it provided an opportunity to rest and keep our core body temperature up.

Unfortunately, after a day of leading beyond Camp 4, we ran out of rope and fixings to get us any further.  By the time we came to the end of the ropes we were barely 2 rope lengths from the subsidiary summit at 8010m and had pretty much set the stage for a summit attempt to follow behind us.  Without more rope and fixings we had little choice but to retreat to Camp 3 for the night.  After a 14 hour day, we finally crawled into our tents at Camp 3; a little disappointed that we could not go further, but very satisfied that we had cracked the Gendarme.

Life for Dick, 2 sherpas and I up high over 7000m for 4 days was demanding.  Our loads were heavy with fixings, ropes and camping equipment. The Sherpas did a sterling job, loaded with ropes which were carried forward as Dick and I led the route from the front.  Due to the thin air and demanding work, we rested on oxygen from Camp 3 and then used it for climbing beyond 7500m.  The oxygen system we used, “Summit Oxygen”, has been outstanding.  The oxygen is delivered via a nasal canular, and on a single canister we both managed 3 nights rest and 2 full days’ work, with enough left to have at least another nights rest.  With such longevity from this system it offers us a tremendous advantage to work high for long periods.  The use of the nasal canular is comfortable and unobtrusive, it does not interfere with your vision when climbing and allows you to eat and drink freely.

Despite the demanding work, the situation we found ourselves in was awe inspiring.  No one has been on the upper part of the ridge for 34 years and there has been no British ascent along these lines from our Camp 4 and above.  We had superb views above the Eastern Cwm, which is the heighest in the world, and on our evening descent to Camp 3 we had stunning views over the surrounding 7000m peaks popping up from the clouds.   

The following day (16^th May) we headed back toward Base Camp, stopping at Camp 1 for a chat to Colin and Toby to update them on our progress and the route ahead.  As we passed Camp 1 we were then handing over the lead to Colin and Toby who should be at Camp 2 on the 17^th. From here they will both look to head to Camp 3 and beyond to the end of the ropes.  Completing a few more rope lengths should see them on the subsidiary summit and with any luck a good look at the summit ridge itself.

 Posted by Rupert